Sasha trousers from Closet Case Patterns

As soon as Heather Lou released this pattern, I knew I wanted to sew it. Sasha is a classic slim fit stretch trouser based on the same block as the Ginger jeans. I’ve made the

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Gingers (to be blogged soon) and I knew they fit me reasonably well so the Sashas would be a good bet too. I’ve wanted a pair of slim fit trousers that would be good for work and I hoped these would be the perfect pair to make me feel a bit more put together while I continue to explore my style. These are also on my Make Nine list for this year!

As always, this pattern is well drafted with good, clear instructions. Would you expect anything else from Closet Case Patterns?! Sasha has 2 views: view a, full length with pockets, and view b, cropped length with no pockets. I decided in my infinite wisdom decided to combine the 2 views and made the cropped length with pockets but no back pockets (because I couldn’t be bothered to do the welt pocket. Of course I now regret that decision!).

Based on the fit adjustments I had had to make for the Gingers, I knew these trousers would need a bit of work to get them to a wearable state. Based on measurements I traced a US size 20 graded to a US 18 at the waist – this is a full size bigger than I cut for the Gingers but I still needed to take in the waist by at least an extra inch and both side seams by an inch each, so I probably could have sized down to at least a US 16 and then adjusted from there. I didn’t muslin these trousers and made my adjustments as I sewed as plenty of them could be done that way. All in all I adjusted the following:

  • 1/2″ low butt adjustment
  • took in back leg fullness by 1″
  • let out front fullness 0.5cm (yes I know you should work in 1 set of measurements but that’s not me)
  • tapered legs by 10cm – my legs appear to be several sizes smaller from the mid-thigh down!)
  • took in inseam by 1/2″
  • shortened leg by 1″

All of these adjustments did help with the fit but there are still some pretty big issues I need to work on. I think I need to do an adjustment to give more room at the calf as mine are quite big and I really need to deal with the huge amount of excess fabric around the knee. If I had shortened the legs properly at the lengthen/shorten line this would helped a bit but without shaving lots off the seams I just don’t know what adjustment to make to get rid of it. Fit for Real People and Pants for Real People, alongside a Singer brand fitting book let me down as none of them had any advise on how to fix it so if you have any ideas, please let me know! I also need to do something about the excess at the back leg, I think increasing the back rise would help to pull it all in to the right place. I sewed the hook and bar in the wrong place and also had to have a few attempts at the internal

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I know when fitting you need to follow the wrinkles to the problem area but the wrinkles here have no idea where they’re going so…

buttonhole as my machine is a bit temperamental – I’ve been looking at a few at Sew Essential but if anyone has a machine that does a really beautiful buttonhole please let me know!

I ranted a lot about my fitting issues on instagram stories and someone suggested I look in to prominent thigh adjustments too – if you have any tips for these too I’d greatly appreciate it! I’d be lying if I said that all the fitting problems I had hadn’t knocked my confidence though. Since finishing these my sewing and body confidence has been very low but I’m working my way through it. I’ve spent so many years in jeans and my own perception of how I look does differ from the reality and sometimes I struggle to find the balance between the two. I do not look like Heather Lou’s beautiful model in these trousers and that’s ok. I look like me and sewing gives me an opportunity to explore new styles and shapes that shopping for RTW just doesn’t. I also realised that I’ve never made myself slim fitting trousers before, and for a first go these actually aren’t too bad! I’m not sure I’d call these a win yet though – looking at the photos I’m not sure these are the best style for me but I also think my perception is a bit biased because of the difficulties I faced. Time will tell!

I used a really beautiful soft stretch cotton twill from Sew Essential in the French Navy colour. The fabric has a good amount of stretch for these and enough recovery to stop them getting too baggy by the end of the day if you do a lot of sitting in them but I think personally I might need to wash them every wear. Somehow my waist has shrunk a little since I starting cutting these out so I’m probably going to need a belt but for now I think I can get away with it! The fabric also withstood a fair amount of unpicking pretty well too without warping or going all holey! I’m debating getting the same fabric in black to make a second pair of (properly adjusted) Sashas. I used a pretty floral cotton from my stash for my pocket linings and I also used it to make bias binding to finish the waistband off. I also managed to dig out a clear button to use on the inside and it actually looks quite professional inside! I did considering using the Ginger pocket and adding some back patch pockets but I decided to keep them clean and simple initially, although I might go back and add some soon. I do have to confess that despite my love of the pattern and the fabrics, I’m not sure how flattering Sasha is on my body shape right now but pocket placement is like a magic trick on the Gingers and that might help.

Fitting issues and body image woes aside, I’m actually quite pleased with these trousers. I’ve even worn them to work! To everyone who watched my instagram stories and responded with really helpful tips or words of comfort, I am very grateful and I’m sending you all a big squishy hug!

Disclaimer: this is a sponsored post. I was very kindly sent the pattern and fabric by Sew Essential for use in this post. All opinions are my own.

3 thoughts on “Sasha trousers from Closet Case Patterns

  1. Naomi says:

    Arohanui! Pants sewing is literally the WORST for making you feel crap about yourself and your sewing but you made a pair of pants that you can wear and they look great on you! Guarantee they fit you better than most RTW ones do as well. I wonder if a little more length in the back rise at the crotch might help lift that sagging at the knee… but I’m just spit ballin’ here. Also perhaps a little less width at the knee in the back leg only. Good luck! Sometimes you just want to burn the mofos when you’re done though but we’ve all been there. You’re a beautiful creative person and don’t let it get you down.

    Like

  2. Heather says:

    Did you try the full calf adjustment ? I have made several versions, and still get punching at the knees, so am wondering if that’s it.

    Like

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