from Pinterest
Hello hive mind! I’m having a bit of a dilemma with my peacoat. I’m at muslin stage (woo!) but I just can’t work out how to deal with the fabric pooling at the back waist! It’s making me sad (sulky) and I kinda want to make something nice and simple to get me back in the zone… We all know that means have a strop and put the peacoat in a pile for the next few months haha! But I’m determined not to be defeated, even if it takes a bit longer than planned!
I’m pearshaped and also a few stone on the heavy side. Add in a swayback and it’s a just a pfaff (see what I did there?!) to get things to fit. V1467 has princess seams on front and back and fit surprisingly well out of the envelope
– the only adjustments I’ve made so far are to shorten the sleeves and let out the seams a little from the waist down to accommodate my hips. In the pictures I’ve got the chunkiest jumper I own on to make sure I’ll have enough room which is why I look a bit like the Michelin man! I’m happy with the fit of the front as it is – the pockets were also much easier than anticipated. I also only did one belt strap to check placement etc.
I’m wondering if, because I’ve shortened the arms, is the body too long? Looking at the photos after a few days of ignoring the problem, it all looks like it might just be a bit long above the waist for me. Or am I going to have to make muslin after muslin mucking about with a swayback adjustment? I have included some deeply hideous pictures showing the problem area, sorry to inflict the dreadful angles at you but they serve as a personal harsh reminder I really need to start running again. Yikes. I’d really appreciate any advice you guys have.
Jenny stitched this 
So I would say do both! I’ll explain:
First, just baste where your swayback would be. Take out the excess fabric where your back is hollow, pinch, and baste. Take lots of pictures, see how you like it.
Then take out the basting stitches and see how just shortening the torso works. Take out the side seams, pinch and baste the length, and baste again. See which fit you like best.
I’ll look for the article at home, but it could also be part sway back and part princess seams issue. If you change the seams to go more towards the inside, it might let the sides sit better and take out more from the mid back area. And then from there do a more minor sway back. Or make the jacket with darts instead of princess seams! I have had to do that before to make something fit because my lower back is pretty hollow compared to my hips and butt.
I hope I gave you some inspo or hope! I’ve had the same issues, good luck, it’s always a pain being petite and curvy. 😀
LikeLike